From Afghanistan's Rubble, A Teacher Builds A School Of Ideas

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Aziz Royesh is one of 10 finalists for the $1 million Global Teacher Prize. (Zabihullah Tamanna for NPR)
Aziz Royesh is one of 10 finalists for the $1 million Global Teacher Prize. (Zabihullah Tamanna for NPR)

Aziz Royesh is a man whose life has been defined by one over-arching ambition: He says he simply wants to be a teacher.

At 46, he has achieved that goal in one of the most difficult and dangerous environments in the world — Afghanistan. He has also founded a school that is now winning international acclaim as a model for education in that war-battered nation.

Royesh has done this without any professional teaching qualifications, and despite being compelled by conflict to end his own formal education at the age of 10. He is the driving force behind the creation of Marefat School, a cluster of stark buildings amid the mud-bound alleys on the western edge of the Afghan capital, Kabul.

The students are almost all impoverished Hazaras, a Shia Muslim minority that's suffered heavily during Afghanistan's many years of conflict.

He's also one of 10 teachers short-listed for the Varkey Foundation's Global Teacher Prize — an award billed as the Nobel prize for educators. The winner will be announced Sunday. Royesh says, if he's chosen, he'll donate the $1 million prize money to his school.

Aziz Royesh (center) in the streets near the Marefat School in Kabul.
Aziz Royesh (center) in the streets near the Marefat School in Kabul.

'They Can Laugh With Me'

You only have to step inside Marefat School to realize how greatly it differs from others in Afghanistan. Facilities include music and art departments, and a student radio station. Pictures of Martin Luther King Jr., Mahatma Gandhi and Abraham Lincoln adorn the walls.

When NPR visited, on a recent morning, Royesh was in front of a group of teenaged students, eagerly kindling a debate. The discussion shifted to a fundamental question: Should you obey society's rules, if those rules are unjust and set by autocrats, like the Taliban? The girls in the group weighed in.

It quickly became clear that Royesh is not one of those teachers — found in abundance in south and central Asia — who expect their students to write down what they say, without questioning it.

"All these students around me, they can easily come, and they can challenge me," he told NPR. "They can reject me. They can oppose me. They can laugh with me. Sometimes they can even laugh at me. They can!"

Royesh (right) visits music class.
Royesh (right) visits music class.

Marefat School was established in the Afghan capital in 2002, just after the U.S. and its allies invaded and ousted the Taliban from power. Back then, much of the city was damaged — and so, recalls Royesh, were many of its citizens.

"They were psychologically destroyed. They were very pessimistic, you know, full of hatred, [and] cultural violence."

Around that time a British baroness, Frances D'Souza, met Royesh while she was on a visit to Afghanistan. She has since become Speaker of the House of Lords in the U.K. parliament.

She remembers him as "a bundle of energy," a man small in stature but with "a huge brain and a huge heart."

"He seized on me," she says, "because he wanted to discuss women's liberation, democracy, civil society, civil education. And we talked for hours and hours and hours."

Royesh (center) holds an impromptu class in the auditorium of Marefat School in Kabul.
Royesh (center) holds an impromptu class in the auditorium of Marefat School in Kabul.

The school started out in a half-ruined building with only 37 students. Using funds that D'Souza helped raise, Royesh refurbished another building. Then, she says, he made "a smart move".

He put in heating. Local families, struggling to buy fuel for their stoves at home, flocked in to escape the winter cold.

This gave Royesh an opportunity to set about persuading the adults — particularly fathers — to let their daughters enroll in the school.

Marefat School now has more than 3,500 students, of whom nearly half are female.

His achievements become still more remarkable when you consider Royesh's own education. He was pulled out of school when he was still in the fifth grade, after the Soviet Union invaded Afghanistan in 1979.

Royesh says he encourages students to question what they're taught. "They can challenge me," he says.
Royesh says he encourages students to question what they're taught. "They can challenge me," he says.

His family lived in the eastern province of Ghazni, in a neighborhood that Royesh says was controlled by mujahadeen fighters battling the Russians. There was much fighting in the area. His father, a farmer, feared for Royesh's life, and decided to send him — alone — to take refuge in neighboring Pakistan.

There, Royesh spent his early teens relying on his wits to survive. He says that, to pay for food and lodging, he became a child laborer, taking whatever work he could find in factories, and shops.

Throughout this ordeal, he carried on studying in his spare time. At 16, he returned to Afghanistan and set up a makeshift classroom in his home to teach basic literacy to his male friends and his brothers. He was eventually recruited by the authorities to help establish other schools in the area.

When the Taliban took power in the mid-'90s, Royesh — by now, an adult — again fled to Pakistan and established a network of schools for Afghan refugees, creating a structure that was eventually transferred to Kabul to become Marefat School.

Setting up a school in Afghanistan that nurtures liberal arts, humanism and free thinking has not proved to an easy task.

Royesh says his approach is not about the denial of conservative Islamic views.

"When I talk to the students, when I help them to be free, to be liberal-minded, I am not ideologically opposing any of these clerics," he explains. "They are here. They have the right to have their own interpretation. But I am a Muslim as well. I have my own ... right to interpret the Koran."

Royesh says the Afghan government, then headed by President Hamid Karzai, refused to certify Marefat School — a requirement if students are to go on to university — unless it agreed to segregate girls from boys, and end civics lessons.

The school complied. However, it has found ways of easing these restrictions by folding co-educational activities and civics into extra-curricular pursuits, including a student parliament.

In 2009, a mob attacked the school after some female students joined a protest in Kabul against a new law that legalized rape within marriage. Royesh remembers the crowd threatening to burn down the place, and calling for his execution. The security forces eventually intervened.

Violence and official obstructionism have failed to dampen Royesh's passion for his work.

"He's a born teacher, one of those people whose joy is in sharing information," says Baroness D'Souza. He is also, she says, a man with an extraordinary thirst for knowledge of all kinds.

"In the early days, when I was going regularly to Afghanistan, he once said, Could I bring him a French dictionary? He wanted to learn French philosophy, but he didn't know how to speak French."

Royesh admits that — with his skills and connections — he could have landed a lucrative and powerful job in Afghanistan's government, or with an international organization.

But, he adds, "I felt that — no, that's not the thing that I want. I want to be a simple teacher."

Creating Marefat School has brought its own kind of rewards.

"This is not my school," says Royesh, "This is the school of the community. But I am helping my dreams come true in this school. So I am rich. I am very rich."

Copyright 2015 NPR. To see more, visit http://www.npr.org/.

Copyright NPR. View this article on npr.org.

Transcript

RACHEL MARTIN, HOST:

This is WEEKEND EDITION from NPR News. I'm Rachel Martin. Teaching requires courage, especially if you teach in Afghanistan. We're about to meet a man who has overcome all sorts of odds to bring quality education to boys and girls in his country. He caught the eye of NPR's Ed Team in its quest to highlight 50 great teachers. NPR's Philip Reeves paid him a visit.

PHILIP REEVES, BYLINE: This is something you don't usually see in Afghanistan - a highly conservative Islamic society. A teenage girl is debating with her fellow students. Pictures of Martin Luther King Jr. and Abraham Lincoln adorn the classroom walls. The students are discussing whether you should break the law if that law is set by autocrats like the Taliban. Most schools here expect kids to write down what their teachers tell them without asking questions. This institution is different and so is the teacher leading this discussion, Aziz Royesh.

AZIZ ROYESH: All these students around me, they can easily come and they can challenge me. They can reject me. They can oppose me. They can laugh with me. Sometimes even they can laugh at me, you know, they can.

REEVES: This is Marefat School. It's set within a warren of muddy alleys on the western edge of the city of Kabul. The students are almost all poor and almost all Hazaras, a Shia Muslim minority hard hit by years of conflict. The school was founded by Royesh in 2002 after the Taliban was thrown out of power.

ROYESH: Thirteen years back when we started our school here, the city was completely destroyed. This was the same with the people. They were psychologically destroyed. They were very pessimistic, you know, full of hatred, cultural violence.

REEVES: Baroness Frances D'Souza met Royesh around that time. She has since become speaker of the House of Lords in the U.K.'s parliament.

BARONESS FRANCES D'SOUZA: He's quite a small man, and he has a huge brain and a huge heart. And he seized upon me because he wanted to discuss women's liberation, democracy, civil society, civic education. And we talked for hours and hours and hours.

REEVES: This school started out in a bombed-out building with just 37 students. Using funds Baroness D'Souza helped raise, Royesh refurbished another building and made a smart move. He put in heating. Locals flocked in to escape the winter cold. Royesh set about persuading fathers to let their daughters enroll. His school now has more than 3.5 thousand students, nearly half are female. This achievement is still more remarkable when you consider Royesh's own education.

ROYESH: I went to school just 'til grade five. I've not been to school beyond grade five.

REEVES: Royesh is a farmer's son from Afghanistan's Eastern Province of Ghazni. He was 10 when the Soviets brought his schooling to an end by invading. It was 1979. Royesh says his father sent him alone through the mountains to seek refuge in neighboring Pakistan.

ROYESH: Because I couldn't stay there. And every day there was an attack of the Russians. And my family, my father, they were afraid of being, you know, killed.

REEVES: In Pakistan, Royesh had to survive on his wits.

ROYESH: I work in the factories and the bakery and the confectionery, you know, sweet shops and tailoring and carpentry and as laborer force worker just to nourish myself.

REEVES: Royesh says throughout all of this, he carried on studying alone in his spare time. At 16, he returned to Afghanistan and set up a classroom in his home to teach basic literacy to local boys. When the Taliban took over in the mid-'90s, Royesh fled again to Pakistan. There he set up a network of schools for Afghan refugees. That network created the structure that eventually turned into today's Marefat School.

(SOUNDBITE OF PIANO MUSIC)

REEVES: Students in the music department proudly show off their skills. The school also has a radio station and a thriving arts department. Creating this kind of environment in Afghanistan has not been easy. A few years back, the government, then headed by Hamid Karzai, forced the school to segregate girls from boys and end civics lessons. Civics are now folded into extracurricular activities. The school even has a student parliament. Royesh says his approach isn't about denying conservative Islamic views.

ROYESH: When I talk to the students, when I help them to be free, to be liberal minded, I'm not ideologically opposing any of these clerics. They are here. They have the right to have their own interpretation. But I am a Muslim as well. I have my own rights to interpret Quran.

REEVES: In 2009, a mob attacked the school after some female students protested a new law legalizing rape within marriage. The crowd threatened to burn down the place and wanted to kill Royesh.

ROYESH: And that was really a shocking moment. For me, that was one of the things that has all the time, you know, traumatized me.

REEVES: This failed to dampen Royesh's passion for his work.

D'SOUZA: He's a teacher. He's a born teacher. You know, one of those people whose joy is in sharing information.

REEVES: Baroness D'Souza says he has an unquenchable thirst for knowledge.

D'SOUZA: In the early days when I was going regularly to Afghanistan, he once said to me can I bring him a French dictionary. He said because he wanted to learn French philosophy, but he didn't know how to speak French.

REEVES: Royesh admits that with his skills and connections he could have a highly lucrative job somewhere else.

ROYESH: I could be an influential member in the government. I could be a very good translator, maybe, for example, for one of these embassies. None of them really tempted me. I felt that no, that's not the thing that I want. I want to be a simple teacher.

REEVES: Being a simple teacher brings its own kind of rewords, says Royesh.

ROYESH: This is not my school. This is the school of the community. But I am helping my dreams to come true in the school. So I am rich. I'm very rich.

REEVES: Philip Reeves, NPR News, Kabul. Transcript provided by NPR, Copyright NPR.