Bringing simple back: 'Fat and Flour' cookbook focuses on flavor, not fuss

Nicole Rucker is an acclaimed pastry chef, bakery owner and two-time James Beard Award semi-finalist for outstanding pastry chef.

So, some might be surprised that the first line of her new cookbook, "Fat and Flour," is, "A few years ago, I fell out of love with baking." Her illustrated cookbook is her ode to falling back in love with craft by simplifying.

The book — which includes six brownie recipes, five banana breads and six chess pies — includes tips, charts, fun facts and equipment lists. But most of all, it's the perfect go-to for creative, flavor-packed, crowd-pleasing recipes that Rucker says remove unnecessary steps and bring the joy back to baking.

By Nicole Rucker

Brownies are one of the easiest bakes to make gluten- free because they typically use a lot less flour than most cakes and cookies. This GF brownie recipe has a secret gooey enhancing ingredient: the small marshmallows folded into the batter melt while baking, creating a wonderful mochi-like texture. The large marshmallows roast on the surface, creating a s’mores-like effect. Yes, you need both to achieve this perfect balance.

MAKES ONE 9 × 13 INCH TRAY OF BROWNIES

Preheat your oven to 375°F (190°C). Lightly grease a 9-by-13-by-1-inch quarter sheet pan, and line the bottom and sides with parchment paper.

Put the butter into a small saucepan, and heat it over medium heat. Stir every few minutes and watch it closely to prevent it from browning. While the butter is melting, put both chocolates into a heatproof bowl. When the butter is melted, pour it over the chocolate, and stir gently until every piece of chocolate has melted into the butter.

In a large mixing bowl, combine the dark-brown sugar, granulated sugar, salt, eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla. Use a hand mixer to beat vigorously for 1 minute, until the mixture is pale in color and very creamy- looking. It is important to beat the eggs and sugar really well, because this is how you get a shiny, flaky top layer on your brownie. Add the melted chocolate and butter to the egg mixture, and whisk until everything is combined. Whisk the flour and cocoa powder in a small bowl, and add them to the melted chocolate mixture along with the pecans and mini marshmallows, and use a spatula to incorporate them, mixing just until no dry bits of flour remain.

Transfer the batter to the prepared pan, and smooth the surface. Gently rap the pan on the counter to burst any air pockets in the batter. Place the large marshmallows on the surface, and lightly press them into the batter. Bake for 10 minutes on the center rack of your oven, rotate the pan, and continue baking until a cake tester or toothpick inserted in the center comes out with very moist crumbs still clinging to it, about 15 minutes longer. The edges will set and wrinkle a little, the large marshmallows will be browned and starting to lose their shape, and the center will still appear a bit unset. If you have beaten the egg mixture enough, there will be a wonderful shiny surface to the brownies.

Remove the brownies from the oven, and allow them to cool in the pan. Eat immediately, or, if you enjoy a chewier brownie, put the pan in the freezer and chill for ½ hour. Cutting the brownies while they are very cold will produce a densely packed, chewy texture and clean cuts. Store them in an airtight container at room temperature for 1 week or in the fridge for 2 weeks.

The irresistible aroma of coconut and butter is like a siren call to me. I love to serve a slice of this cake toasted, with some berries and whipped cream, for a simple dessert that looks unassuming but is guaranteed to blast your taste buds with a layered harmony of flavor.

This cake is baked using the “Cold Oven” technique of placing your cake in a totally cold oven, closing the door, and then turning on the heat. It takes a little bit longer to bake, but produces a wonderfully even and golden color on the outside of the cake.

MAKES ONE 10 INCH (10–13-CUP) BUNDT CAKE

For the Cake:

For the Glaze:

Generously butter a 10-inch (10–13-cup) Bundt cake pan, and coat the inside of the pan with flour.

Make the cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the flour, coconut, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar together, to disperse the soda and powder and break up any lumps of sugar. Add the cold butter and coconut oil, and mix on low speed until the mixture resembles rustic sand, about 4 minutes.

Whisk the eggs, coconut milk, and vanilla bean paste together in a small bowl, and slowly add this to the buttery mixture on low speed. Mix until everything is combined, making sure there are no dry bits of flour remaining.

Transfer the batter to the prepared Bundt pan. Tap the pan on the counter a few times to burst any air pockets. Place the cake into a cold oven, on a center rack. Turn the oven on to 350°F (176°C). Bake the cake until a toothpick or wooden skewer inserted in the center comes out with a few moist crumbs clinging to it, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The cake will be tall and puffy and browned at the edges.

Cool the cake in the pan for 30 minutes before removing it. Let the cake continue cooling while you make the glaze.

Make the coconut glaze: In a small bowl, whisk 2 tablespoons of coconut milk into the confectioners’ sugar to form a smooth, thick paste. Add the rest of the coconut milk, and whisk to combine it.

Pour the glaze over the cooled cake. This cake keeps well at room temperature wrapped in plastic or in a sealed container for up to 1 week.

There is nothing wrong with a classic banana-bread recipe, but sometimes I want a more complex version, and that’s when I introduce the flavor superpowers of espresso, browned butter, and toasted hazelnuts. This strong loaf needs a strong topping, and for that I look to extra-crunchy demerara sugar.

MAKES ONE 9 × 5 INCH LOAF

Preheat your oven to 350°F (176°C). Lightly oil a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan, and line it with parchment paper.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan set over medium heat, and continue cooking, while scraping the bottom of the pot with a heatproof spatula, until the butter is browned and nutty-smelling. Transfer the browned butter and all the browned bits to a heatproof bowl to cool for 15 minutes before using it.

In a large mixing bowl, smash the bananas with the back of a fork or a potato masher. Add the browned butter, oil, brown sugar, vanilla, eggs, espresso, and sour cream. Whisk to combine everything.

Whisk together the flour, baking soda, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. Fold this into the banana mixture until it’s just combined. Add three-quarters of the hazelnuts, if using, and mix to combine them; then transfer the batter to your prepared pan. Sprinkle the surface with the demerara sugar and the remaining hazelnuts.

Bake it for 40 to 50 minutes, on the center rack of your oven, until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean and the top of the cake has set and is browned. Leave it to cool in the pan for about 30 minutes, then transfer it to a wire rack to cool completely. Store leftovers at room temperature in a sealed container for up to 1 week.

From "FAT + FLOUR" © 2025 by Nicole Rucker. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.